Tom’s travel to Hungary, Eastern Europe

Budapest, Hungarian capital on the Danube River

I went to Hungary in October 2024 with my wife for a 7 day, 6 night vacation. We had a small apartment in Budapest that had everything one could need including a completely outfitted kitchen. The price was very reasonable, about the same that we had recently paid for 3 nights in Paris. We mostly cooked which saved money from eating out although there seemed to be many reasonably priced places to eat away from the main tourist attractions. Most of what tourists want to see is pretty central and well connected by the metro system with often running trains. More confusing were the trams and buses but of course they give one better views of the surroundings. We bought 72 hour passes from the machines. Then we discovered that one over 65, as my wife is, doesn’t have to pay at all. Even as a foreigner, one just shows their official ID. And they do have people very regularly checking one’s tickets upon entering the system.

Unlike most of the EU, Hungary has yet to adopt the Euro, so we had to deal with the money which is around 400 Forints to the Euro. ATMS are the easiest but one has to be careful since there are  some notorious companies that end up taking around 20% in either commissions or bad exchange rates. I had read that the larger local banks should be OK but even an ATM from such a bank at the main bus station took about a 10% spread on the exchange rate. Seems almost all ATMs or exchange bureaus at bus or train stations, airports and some main tourist sites are  going to be a bad deal. Gozsdu Udvar, a section of the old Jewish Quarter now dominated by bars and a heavy party scene at night seems to have multiple such ATMs at every corner. Get people drunk and needing cash and capitalize on it seems to be the motto. The main pedestrian shopping street Vaci Utca is home to lots of souvenir shops and higher priced restaurants catering to tourists wanting to try Hungarian specialties but also many exchange offices, some of which actually gave the best rates. Pays to compare.

We took an overnight Flix bus direct from Stuttgart arriving at the Nepliget bus station a bit south of the center but connected directly to the metro system. The station shows have an electronic board showing departures but only for the coming 30 minutes or so. The ticket counters close early so it is hard to find information. Each of the outdoor departure places has a board as well but they were totally unreliable. Instead one could confirm the schedules departures through the day past a small written list nearby. But one needs to know the departure are to begin with to know where to look.

They have various sized lockers downstairs for luggage that we took advantage of on our last day, dropping our things off in the morning to take an evening bus. The bus station seemed fairly clean and safe and one can get change for the lockers from the person controlling the public pay toilets. We had a middle sized locker that costed about 5 Euros for 24 hours; not as cheap as expected but worth the money in the situation. We had read various sources claiming that the station and thus access to the lockers would close early in the evening but got confirmation that they would be open until 11.30 pm.

After getting local money and our metro passes we went outside of the bus station to chill out in a nearby park. Next to the station was a large convention hall and a stadium. We then took the Metro a bit north of the inner center to Nyugati one of 2 stations for long distance trains. This area was an introduction the historical architecture of the city and there was an interesting book cart, something we saw a number of around Budapest. We took a tram west from there to the Danube River getting out before the Margit Hid (bridge) pictured here. There was a small park with a statue with Imre Nagy on a bridge. Nagy was the leader of the 1956 revolution against the Soviets. As the next day was the Hungarian National day holiday, this and other memorials to national heroes was being heavily visited and flowers left behind.

Orszaghaz – Budapest Hungarian parliament building

After we accessed our apartment we went back out and went directly to the iconic parliament buidling or Orszaghaz. Large ornate impressive surrounded by multiple statues, like the Kossuth Lajos memorial, and flanked on one side by the Danube and the other side by other by a grassy area and multiple majestic buildings notably the ministry of agriculture building that was being renovated.

Budapest – Deák Ferenc tér + utca, Anker Palace, Vörösmarty tér

From near the parliament we took a metro to Deák Ferenc tér which is a main square and intersection in the center and crossroads of the 3 major metro lines. There were a number of nice statues on buildings here as well as a fountain of a female nude. To the NE one sees the Ankor Palace. The tourist information office is close by and the Deák Ferenc utca (street) runs west from there as a pedestrian shopping street, promoted as a “fashion street”,  intersecting with the Váci utca shopping street at the Vörösmarty tér (square).

Erzsébet tér aka Elisabeth Square

North of Deák Ferenc tér is another plaza called Erzsébet tér aka Elisabeth Square. There is a large German beer hall with German drink food and traditional brass instrument music, souvenir shops and a large Ferris wheel. There are also a number of impressive fountains and statues.

Budapest Szent István Bazilika – Saint Stephen’s Basilica

A few blocks north of Elisabeth’s Square is another one of Budapest’s main icons the St. Stephen’s Basilica. Especially as seen from the altitudes of the castle complex across the Danube on the Buda side of the city; the spires of the cathedral stand out on the skyline only secondary to the parliament building. In a city with numerous churches, this is the largest and most majestic. Unfortunately, it is not cheap to enter so we did not get to see the interior.

Jewish Quarter – Dohány utcai Zsinagóga – Dohány Street Synagogue

The highlight of existing local Jewish community is the Dohány utcai Zsinagóga aka Dohány Street Synagogue, the largest synagogue in Europe. There is a large sign advertising free tours but this is only in connection with paying the not small entrance fee. There were a number of signs and posters around commemerating the Hamas attack in Israel around 11 months prior but nothing about Israel’s resulting genocide. Also saw an interesting sign flying from a hotel balcony across the street with pro Trump propaganda. Seems Hungary’s recent reputation for authoritative conservative hate against Muslims, gays and dark skinned foreigners has attracted some questionable people.

Rákóczi Utca, Blaha Lujza tér, Corvin Áruház Park

Meandering south from the Synagogue and then east on a main thoroughfare called Rákóczi Utca we passed  interesting shops like this picture antique shop, a shop selling products made from lavender and statues on buildings. We went as far as Blaha Lujza tér (Square) and the adjacent Corvin Áruház Park. There were a number of historical buildings nearby housing hotels and shops including a Lidl supermarket rather than  some kind of government building or museum.

Hungarian National Museum, Nagycsarnok large market hall, Fővám tér

From Blaha Lujza tér we jumped in the Metro to go SW to get to the Hungarian National Museum. It was a nice setting with a large plaza in front with the Arany statue and people sitting on benches in the late afternoon sun. We went into the foyer and checked out information about the exhibits; seems like an exhaustive covering of national history objects best visited when one has the time and maybe when the weather is not so nice. From the museum we strolled past Kálvin tér on our way to Nagycsarnok, the large historical market hall. Across the street is Fővám tér where one end of the main pedestrian shopping street Vaci Utca ends. There was an ornate building there with some nice paintings as well as street musicians and skateboarders creating an almost festive atmosphere.

Buda – Castle complex, Fishermans bastion, Matthias church

Budapest can be seen as 2 parts; Pest to the east which is the flat main part of the city. To the west is Buda dominated by the large castle complex on a high hill. We crossed the Danube and walked up to the norther section where the large Matthias church and finance ministry building are surrounded by a large plaza ringed by a fortification called the Halaszbastya or  Fishermans Bastion. Supposedly this ornate complex of walls, ramparts and towers was not primarily built as a military defense despite it’s appearance. It is a major setting to see tourists enjoying some of the best views over the city. Sections have been made into restaurants and the main tower has an entrance fee (as does the church) otherwise it has unrestricted access.

Budavári Palota, Royal Palace, Sándor Palace, Karmelita kolostor aka Carmelita Monastery

South from the Fishermans’ Bastion one passes souvenir shops, restaurants and a cave system advertised as Dracula’s labyrinth. One eatery had workers making the local chimney cake over on outdoor grill. About 700 meters along the ridge top one comes to the main buildings of the  Karmelita kolostor aka Carmelita Monastery, the Sándor Palace which is the presidential residence where the guards put on regular display. The main buildings of the Budavári Palota aka Royal Palace house the National Gallery, National Library and BHM Castle Museum. One also sees the hill station of the Budavári Sikló or Buda Hill Funicular a cable car that connects down the hill. The whole castle area offers many good views of the Danube and city below.

Buda: Várkert Bazár aka Castle Garden Bazaar

Below the castle complex above the banks of the Danube is a complex called Várkert Bazár aka Castle Garden Bazaar, which consists of a series of renovated historical buildings and gardens. There are presently shops, galleries and restaurants inside.

Váci utca, Vörösmarty tér

Váci utca is the main pedestrian shopping street running parallel to the Danube from Fővám Tér near the large market hall north to Vörösmarty tér square where it intersects with the perpendicular Deák Ferenc utca “Fashion Street”. Department stores many of them for luxury brands, restaurants, souvenir shops, antiques, money exchange offices, chimney cake shops it’s all to be found here.

József Nádor Square, Archduke Statue, Zsolnay-díszkút, ministry of Finance

A bit north of Vörösmarty tér is another plaza called József Nádor Square. Notable here is the Archduke Joseph of Austria Statue and colorful Zsolnay-díszkút ceramic fountain by the renowned artist Zsolnay. Next to the square is one more majestic building, this one belonging to the ministry of finance. A couple of blocks from ther was the Lajos Batthyányi Eternal Flame monument across from the Ministry of Justice building.

Budapest – Ferenciek tere, Párisi Udvar Hotel

Ferenciek tere or Franciscan square is an area just a couple blocks east from about the halfway point  of Vaci Utca. There is a Franciscan church here, hence the name, a  large statue and quite a number of majestically built buildings including the Párisi Udvar Hotel with its old world charm. Definitely what one would call an upper class neighborhood. Halfway between Vaci Utca and Ferenciek tere is an interesting statue of the Hungarian writer Gyula Krudy sitting in contemplation.The additional seat provided across is an open invitation to pose with him; so I did.

Budapest Astoria Hotel on Rákóczi út

1/3 of the way east between Ferenciek tere and Blaha Lujza tér along the major thoroughfare Rákóczi út is the area (and Metro stop) of Astoria named after the iconic hotel and cafe with a number of interesting buildings nearby.

Hősök tere Heroes Square, Szépművészeti Múzeum, Műcsarnok

Hősök tere or Heroes Square is on the NE edge of the inner city of Budapest. The large square itself has statues and memorials of the 7 chieftains of the Magyars (Hungarians) as well and other national heroes. It was the Republic day when we visited so many flowers and candles were left here to commemorate. It is flanked on opposite sides by the Szépművészeti Múzeum or Museum of Fine Arts and Műcsarnok or Palace of Arts.

Eastern Banks of Danube River

In Budapest one ends up again and again along the Danube River. In the very center of town there are a number of churches and squares like Budapest-Belvárosi Nagyboldogasszony Főplébánia-templom aka Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Also Istenszülő elhunyta Nagyboldogasszony ortodox székesegyház aka Orthodox Cathedral of Our Lady. Then there is the Széchenyi István tér aka Stephen Széchenyi Square with a large statue. In addition to some additional impressive buildings along the way one has views of the Buda castle complex across the river on the hill and boats on the river containing restaurants or offering sight-seeing tours. The four seasons hotel Greshem palace is another landmark here. Along the way we passed a numbr of tabacco shops which made me think of our recent trip to Paris where tobacco is also often sold in special shops. I didn’t actually check in either city to see if  it isn’t sold in every supermarket and other types of shops these days but the tradition seems to remain.

Hévíz Tófürdő Hungary- Spa town near Balaton Lake

SW of Budapest is a long shallow lake called Balaton. It is well known in Eastern Europe as a tourist destination, multiple places where there are thermal vents and wallowing in the mud is said to have curative powers. Near the far NW corner of the Balaton is the town of Hévíz with a small pond feed by both cold and warm springs. We made a day trip from Budapest with a 2 ½ hours bus ride from Népliget station to get there. It is said to have special properties due to the bacteria that breed there on the muddy bottom. There is a large spa or “Tófürdő”, which although historical is rather run down and shabby. The building spans over part of the lake and one descends into the waters below. I am not sure if the strong smell is due to sulfur content of the thermal water or a byproduct of the festering dirty water.  At least it had a reasonable rate for 3 hours, which was enough for us, rather than a high day price like some of the Budapest baths. The village itself was obviously built around catering to budget tourists desire for food, accommodation and souvenirs.